Watch the trail left by a spoon

Tomato purees differ in water content, so the cooking time is a guide. Drag a spoon across the bottom: the path should remain visible briefly before sauce flows back. Cooled sauce usually feels thicker than hot sauce. Do not keep reducing it until sticky just because it looks loose while bubbling. Smoked paprika supplies smoke flavor without an additional liquid smoke product. Leave out the chili flakes for sensitive diners and offer heat separately.

A broad pan loses water faster than a narrow saucepan, so adjust the heat and stir around the edges. If onion pieces are unwelcome, blend only after they soften. Use a tall vessel with room above the sauce to contain splashes; never blend hot liquid in a tightly sealed container. Portion with clean utensils and keep the remaining supply refrigerated.

Serving sauce versus brushing glaze

A table sauce can remain fairly thick. For brushing, mix two tablespoons sauce with one teaspoon water; a thin layer sets more evenly than a heavy blob. The food should already be nearly cooked before this sugary coating goes on. Several light layers are possible if each has time to set and the food stays away from flames. Reserve a clean serving portion before brushing begins. If the sauce tastes overly sweet, add vinegar by the teaspoon rather than trying to compensate with increasingly large amounts of salt.

The recipe

Makes about 2 cups / 450 ml

Ingredients

  • 14 oz / 400 g plain tomato puree
  • 1 small onion, finely diced
  • 1 tbsp canola oil
  • 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
  • 2 tbsp brown sugar
  • 1 tbsp tomato paste
  • 1 tsp smoked paprika
  • ½ tsp fine salt
  • ¼ tsp black pepper
  • 1 pinch chili flakes

Method

  1. Warm oil in a saucepan and soften onion over medium heat for about 5–7 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook for one minute without letting it blacken.
  2. Add tomato puree, vinegar, sugar, paprika, salt, pepper and chili. Simmer uncovered over low heat for 20–25 minutes, stirring regularly and scraping the bottom.
  3. Blend if desired, guarding against hot splashes. Check consistency after slight cooling and loosen with a tablespoon of water if needed. Take out a separate portion for glazing and brush it onto food only near the end of cooking.

Storage

Put leftovers into shallow covered containers and refrigerate within two hours, or one hour when the temperature exceeds 90°F / 32°C. Keep at 40°F / 4°C or colder and use within three days. Store dressing separately when possible, and reheat only the portion you plan to eat.

Use grilling equipment only in its intended location and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Timing is not a substitute for checking doneness.